| TECHNICAL INFORMATION ARTICLES  |
CHAMPION
TRAILER
PARTS SUPPLY 1-800-229-6690 |
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| FAX: 1-800-359-8169 ORDER FORM | ||
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| TECHNICAL INFORMATION ARTICLES |
CHAMPION
TRAILER
PARTS SUPPLY 1-800-229-6690 |
|
| FAX: 1-800-359-8169 ORDER FORM | ||
HYDRAULIC SURGE DRUM BRAKE KIT INSTALLATION
The hydraulic surge brake system is a totally trailer self contained braking system.
It requires no interconnection of any mechanical or electrical components to the
tow vehicle (other than the brake coupler itself) to provide totally automatic
and proportional operation of the trailer brakes. It utilizes the inertial differential
pressure created between the tow vehicle and the trailer during tow vehicle braking
to create a proportional mechanical pressure which is applied to the pushrod of
the brake coupler master cylinder. This results in a hydraulic output which is
proportional to the braking pressure being applied to the tow vehicle, and results
in a totally automatic and regulated operation of the trailer's brakes.
NOTE:
Prior to beginning the brake system installation, it must be determined whether or not your existing axle is compatible with the 6054 BRAKE KIT components. The axle which is receiving the retrofit brake components must have:
Note: The bearing numbers are etched onto the edge of the bearings. If your existing axle has these components parameters, it should be compatible with the 6054 BRAKE KIT.
If, however, you are installing a new CHAMPION
SPINDLE- LUBEŽ axle, it is not necessary to pre-grease (prepack) your
bearings and hub drums. With the SPINDLE-LUBEŽ axle, the bearings can
be installed dry and then, because the SPINDLE-LUBE axle contains a builtin
hub packing tool in each spindle, you can properly pack grease into your
hub drums and bearings after they have been installed on the axle.
The standard bearing packing tool contains two convex shaped plates attached to a threaded rod with a grease zerk fitting on the end of the threaded rod. With the bearings in place in the packing tool, you pump grease into the zerk fitting forcing grease through the rollers of the bearing. This bearing is now ready for installation into the hub.
If you do not have a bearing packing tool, you can achieve the same results
with the *grease in palm * method. Although a messy process,
it is equally effective if done properly and carefully. As the name
infers, you
put grease in the palm of one hand and then with the other hand, you methodically
roll and rotate the bearing into the grease, carefully forcing grease
through
all rollers. Once you have prepacked both the inner and outer bearings,
carefully lay them on a totally clean surface. Dirt in the greased
bearing
will act as an abrasive on the bearings and races and can drastically shorten
bearing life.
Next
lay the hub or hub drum face down on a table and fill the rear of the
hub
cavity with liberal amounts of grease, carefully coating the rear race
surface. Now install the inner bearing (bearing next to the seal) into
the rear of
the hub, matching the cone of the bearing to the race. (DO NOT INSTALL
THE BEARING BACKWARDS!)
Now
set the double lip seal (the inner lip with the spring goes inside the
hub)
squarely atop the rear hub bore. Set a wood block on top of the seal and
tap with a hammer until the seal is flush with the rear hub bore.This completes the rear bearing and seal installation. At this point, turn the hub over on the table, being careful not to get dirt into the grease at the rear of the hub. Now pack liberal amounts of grease in the inner hub cavity.
NOTE: Be sure that the grease you use is a low to medium viscosity (high temperature) grease. Low to medium viscosity grease will flow around and through the hub cavity and bearings providing more total lubricant to the bearings than a high viscosity grease. High viscosity greases tend to centrifuge to the outer hub cavity wall where they stick and stay with only the small amount of grease in the bearing rollers providing lubrication.
To pre-load the bearings, install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto
the spindle with the hub and bearings in place. Tighten the spindle
nut
finger tight (until snug) and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent
wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft
pounds
of torque. Now turn the hub five to ten revolutions. This will fully seat
the races. Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then
re-snug to finger tight, and engage the nut retaining device. (Some
reverse lubricating spindles use a tab washer for the retaining device)
Never run your spindle nut to tight, this will cause your bearings to over heat. And never run your bearings too loose. A very slightly loose spindle nut will run adequately, but too loose and the individual rollers may come apart in the bearings, causing the hub to fracture.
You are now ready to install your dust cap. A short piece of 2" I.D. water pipe makes a good tool to install either a plain dust cap or the SPINDLE-LUBEŽ dust cap for the 3500# axle.
If you are installing brakes on a "plain" spindle axle, we recommend that you use plain dust caps and not "bearing protectors" (Bearing protector refers to the spring loaded dust cap device with a grease zerk fitting in the piston.) Bearing protectors add two to four PSI of pressure inside the hub cavity and in many cases, they cause grease to leak past the seal. If sufficient grease leaks past the seal on a brake hub drum, it will centrifuge out with some grease getting on the brake shoes. Grease on your brake shoes will drastically decrease your braking capacity.
E: BRAKE COUPLER AND BRAKE TUBING INSTALLATION
(NOTE: For ease of working, while fishing the tubing thru this hole, you
may wish to unbolt and remove the brake coupler). Now route the remaining
tubing down one side of the trailer frame, to a point near the brake axle.
Secure the main line tubing with the 3/16" 1-hole straps and bolts provided.
NOTE:
The 16' main tubing line supplied with 6054 BRAKE KIT will
fit most applications for boats from 18' to 20'. However, if you
have a longer
boat and trailer, or you have special routing requirements, you may need
a longer main tubing line. To accomplish this, you can order the
brass
coupler nut, Part # 0517 and one of the shorter pieces of tubing (1'
thru 6.5') to add to your total main tube line length NEVER CUT
THE STAINLESS BRAKE LINE TUBING!! It cannot be field flared,
and comply with the required double flare needed for D.O.T. approved,
automotive braking systems.
Use only factory completed pieces.
Next install the clear plastic hose onto the 3/8" black nipple barbs sticking
out from the rear of both brake clusters. Cut the hose and install the black
barb tee in the line between the two brake clusters and then take the remaining
hose, which is attached to the garden hose connecter and install onto the
3rd
barb on the WASHDOWN kit tee. Now route the plastic hose and install the galvanized
bracket for the garden hose connector to a convenient location on the trailer
frame. (DO NOT ALLOW THE HOSE TO KINK) Secure the plastic hose to the stainless
brake tubing where they cross the length of the axle with the 4" tyraps
supplied. In most cases, the plastic hose tee is located next to the brass
brake
tee and the two hoses leave the axle and approach the trailer frame together.
You have now completed the hardware installation and are ready to bleed the brakes.
Going back to the brake coupler, insert a large screw driver into the 1/2"
dia hole in the coupler under the nut on the pushrod which extends out
the front of the brake coupler housing. With your screw driver in place
in this
hole, you can use a back and forth motion to apply levered pressure directly
to the master cylinder pushrod, by passing the coupler and shock damper
mechanism.
Now have an associate activate the brake coupler master cylinder with the large screw driver, as you did when you were bleeding the brakes. Vigorously spin the tire and wheel and then have him apply the screw driver pressure to the master cylinder push rod. The wheel should come to an abrupt stop. Check both sides to confirm good hydraulic performance of the system. After the pressure on the master cylinder is released, the tire should rotate freely with only the slight drag of the shoe and drum noted.
K: TROUBLE SHOOTING HYDRAULIC BRAKES
CAUSE -1A: The star
adjusting nut on the brake cluster may be open too far.
CORRECTION -1A: Close star adjusting nut
CAUSE -2A: When you
tightened the brake cluster mounting bolts, the brake cluster dropped
to the bottom of the bolt holes and is low in the brake flange.
CORRECTION -2A: Loosen the brake cluster mounting bolts slightly
and raise the brake cluster .20" to .30" and re-tighten mounting bolts.
CAUSE -1B: Brakes
are too tightly adjusted.
CORRECTION -1B: Re-adjust brakes.
CAUSE -2B: Brake
clusters are too low on brake flange and are not concentric with spindle
center.
CORRECTION -2B: Loosen mounting bolts and raise brake cluster
.020"
to .030". Retighten and torque mounting bolts to 30 ft pounds.
CAUSE -3B: The primary
shoe travel retaining bolt is too tight and does not allow the return
travel spring to fully retract push rod on wheel cylinder when brakes
are released.
CORRECTION -3B Loosen the self locking nut on the travel retaining
bolt 1/2 turn or until travel washer is slightly loose allowing push
rod
retraction.
CAUSE -4B: On older
brake clusters, wheel cylinder may have corroded not allowing brakes
to
retract.
CORRECTION -4B: Replace
wheel cylinder - NOTE: When installing a new wheel cylinder application
of a lubricating grease (non rubber destructive) under the rubber boot
and on the side of steel piston will retard future corrosion.
CAUSE -1C: No brake
fluid in master cylinder.
CORRECTION -1C: Check and refill master cylinder (may need to
re-bleed brakes)
CAUSE -2C: Air in
the system.
CORRECTION -2C: Re-bleed brake system.
CAUSE -3C: Brakes
out of adjustment.
CORRECTION -3C: Jack trailer up, adjust
brakes and test system.
CAUSE -4C: Brake coupler
malfunction.
CORRECTION -4C: Test brake coupler operation by removing brake
tubing from rear of master cylinder. Fill reservoir and pump master
cylinder.
A stream of brake fluid should shoot out through the small orifice in
the brass adapter at the rear of the master cylinder. If nothing comes
out, check to see if the orifice in the brass adapter is clogged. Pump
the cylinder with the brass adapter removed. There should be a good
stream
of clear brake fluid coming out the rear hole. If nothing comes out,
the master cylinder is damaged. (Water probably got into the reservoir
and
piston and damaged the master cylinder components). Replace or rebuild
the master cylinder.
CAUSE -5C: Grease
on my brake pads. (Seals on hub drums are leaking; probably using
bearing
protectors and forcing grease past seals).
CORRECTION -5C: Clean or replace brake shoes - Change seals on
hub drums - Replace bearing protectors with "plain" dust caps.
CAUSE -1D: Brakes
are extremely out of adjustment - When brakes are in proper adjustment,
the
wheel cylinder push rod only travels a very short distance to engage
the shoes to the hub drum. When the brakes are out of adjustment,
the push
rod must travel further requiring more wheel cylinder travel and therefore
more hydraulic output from the master cylinder. When the master cylinder
reaches its maximum hydraulic output capability, it travels to its maximum
during every stop, resulting in the clunking of the brake coupler.
CORRECTION -1D: Adjust brakes. (The
clunk is a good warning sign that you need to adjust brakes).
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